In the morning I wanted to give the waterhole a last chance, but when a local guy, on his way back from the site, told me there still was absolutely nothing of interest whatsoever, I turned around and went back to the tent.

We packed our stuff and had a "ranger" drive us to the air strip.

After take off we first flew westbound along the pan, then for about 30 miles over it to a spot where Yann Arthus Bertrand had taken one of his famous "Earth from Above" pictures called "Lake Shore".

Ondangwa was the next stop. The refueller in Tsumeb had ensured us that we could get fuel there and for once we weren't disappointed in that respect.

We would have preferred to go to Opuwo, but hadn't been able to get a hold of anybody there to confirm the availability of fuel. However, the refueller in Ondangwa guaranteed us we could get fuel in Opuwo, so that's where we went next.

Opuwo is the administrative capital of Kaokoland in the north-west of Namibia. It's situated pretty much in the middle of the area the Himbas inhabitate - one of the main reasons for tourists to come here. We figured it would be a good place to check out and stay for a night, so we parked CRO, packed our stuff (in particular the valuables) and headed for the town.

The first accomodation-option was not far away. In fact it was first building we passed after leaving the airstrip. The French guy running the place was friendly, but we figured that NAD 120 per person per night was a bit on the expensive side for what was offered and decided to look further - in particular because our guide book recommended a place that would only be USD 17 for the two of us including breakfast and en-suite bathroom. We really struggled in finding the place because of a rather poor map in the "Lonely Planet". After what seemed a hike that never would end, we finally had found the location. It was a dump - the expectations were quite low, but this was simply unaccetable! The lady was unfriendly and the price was also 120 pppn for a shared bathroom and without breakfast. We turned around on the spot and left.

But we still didn't know what to do and where to go? There we stood in the main crossing of the town and couldn't decide. Should we try to find something else? Or go back to the french guy? After a rather unsuccessful attempt to find a place to eat we decided to continue to Kunene River Lodge.

Before leaving Opuwo we of course had to get some 'mandatory' Himba pictures. Commercialism is not foreign to them. In order to be allowed to make portraits you usually have to pay. Many guides discourage you do this because it is a bad habit, but if you want to take close ups there seems to be no other option. I gave two Himbas NAD 5. They thought they could outsmart me when they tried to bring forward that another coin was needed because five was not dividable by two. I reminded them that four is and indicated that I was about to take one coin back wich quickly made them retreat from their plan :-)

A problem with the paying is also that the Himbas then are posing - and they are not particular good at that. Unbelievable how unnatural and stiff one can look. Probably with their best intentions, but not very photogenic.

Anyway, I got a few photos of Himba women and also of an old fart on a donkey, who 'obviously' wanted money as well.

Approximately at 3 p.m. we left Opuwo and went straight north for the Kunene river which forms the border to Angola. As agreed with the owners we circled some houses near the river (hoping they were the lodge) and were picked up from the air strip Swartbooisdrift, which is about 10 kilometers away.

At NAD 300/night for a tent (not your own, but a big one that they provide) the Kunene River Lodge is a fair deal. Their pool was the dirtiest we have seen so far - with all kinds of animals in it, so we didn't stay in there long.

Best thing was definitely the people we met that evening. We had dinner together with Clint, Mirjam and Emiel from www.dutch- courage.net. Mirjam and Emiel are living out what many adventurous people dream about but (naturally) never get done. A real extended adventure one has to get explained twice to believe! They sold everything back in Holland, bought a Land Rover and off they went to discover the world. And when we met them they had practically just started (8 months on the road by then) - check their site (works unfortunately only with IE) to see how far they have gotten and what still is planned (you can also find a picture of us and our plane there ;-). Clint is Mirjam's cousine, looks like Bruce Willis and is really funny - thank's for a great evening guys!

Two girls who are doctors in Ondangwa and on a kind of exchange program joined us a little later together with a namibian white-water rafting guide and two of his friends. We had our share of beers - been a long time since last.